This document is meant to help the novice as well as the more experienced person to select the right gemstone the first time. There is a whole new world of Colored Gemstones out there just waiting for your enjoyment. The author wishes to express to you that these are his opinions based on over 20 years of experience in the colored gemstone industry.
Color is the number one factor in determining the value of any gemstone, this even includes diamonds. The more intense the color is the more value it has. This does not mean darker, but intense. An example would be the very dark blue sapphires that are offered by some dealers, sometimes they are called navy blue. These navy blue sapphires go almost black when taken out of the strong lights and this is how you will normally see these gems because you do not walk around with a high intensity light to show others your item of jewelry.
Gemstones that look great under a dealers strong lights should also be seen with these lights turned off to see the real color that you will see daily under normal conditions. If the gemstone goes too dark of a color with the lights off you need to pass on this gem and select another. Gemstones should also be seen in natural light such as north daylight. You do not want strong, direct sun light, an overcast day from 10 AM to 3 PM is perfect. Direct sun light is only useful for viewing star type gemstones.
How color is described by those in the gemstone industry using Hue, Tone and Saturation for Colored Gemstones and Diamonds.
Clarity is the term used to describe how clean a gemstone is using a monochromatic color corrected 10X magnification. The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) has set forth standards for clarity grading of Colored Gemstones and Diamonds.
Carat is a metric unit of weight used in the gemstone industry to describe how much a gemstone weighs. A carat is equal to one fifth of a gram or it can be said that there are five carats in one gram. The term points means a decimal fraction of a carat. A point is equal to .01 of a carat. This can equate to one US dollar is equal to $1.00 and it has 100 pennies or 100 points in one carat.
In my opinion Cutting is in reality the number one item that you need to be concerned about! Proper cutting is what gives a gemstone its beauty and brilliance. Many people are confused about what a well cut gemstone looks like. There are no big mysteries about judging good cutting, it is very simple. When viewing a gemstone, looking at the table, a well cut gemstone will be very bright across the entire surface. This brightness is light being bounced around inside the gemstone and being reflected back to your eye. You cannot see through a well cut gemstone because almost all light is being reflected back towards your eyes.
Poorly cut gemstones maybe too shallow or too deep causing what is called a "window". Windows are some thing that you are meant to look through and these are better left as windshields in you car or as windows in your home. If you can see through a gemstone looking from the table down towards the culet, the point on the bottom, it has a window. If you can see through a gemstone it means that light is passing through it, along with color and brilliance, it's gone. Windows weaken the intensity of color and severely affect brilliance. Gemstones with windows are not desirable, they lack beauty and brilliance. You want gemstones that have "mirrors" that reflect back to you all of the beauty and brilliance that is yours to enjoy, but only with well cut gemstones.
Confidence is an additional quality that I have added here. You need to have confidence and trust with those whom you are dealing with. Ask questions and expect answers to your questions regarding a dealers expertise in gemstones or ethics. Is the dealer reputable and knowledgeable? Is the dealer familiar with the AGTA Gemstone Enhancement Codes and do they use them? Did you know that gemstone enhancement disclosure is required on all invoices, memorandums and advertising by the Federal Trade Commission? What type of return policy does the dealer offer if there is a problem? Can the dealer show you a range of items to select from and explain what the differences are and why the price differences? Are you dealing with a sales person or someone who knows what they are doing?
Color is the number one factor in determining value, the more intense the color the more value it has. Weak or faded colors have less value. You may want a less intense color for some reason, you just need to understand that it has less value and you will pay less for it. Pure colors such as pure reds, greens and blues, which are primary colors, command much higher values than those colors that are off just a little.
Cutting in my opinion is really the number one factor that you should look for first. Others may disagree on this, but I always look at cutting first. If the gemstone is not well cut I will pass on it right then and there. Proper cutting gives a gemstone its beauty and brilliance. Why would anyone want a gemstone that just lays there? Gemstones need to make a statement as to their beauty, brilliance and color or better said "They need to talk to you". You have spent your hard earned money on a gemstone and you want to be proud of it. This can only happen with well cut gemstones!
Now that you have a basic understanding of how gemstones receive their value I would suggest that you put this information to good use and get out there and see what is being offered. I do not advocate that you go out and purchase the first gemstone that you fall in love with unless you have shopped around or have done this before with some idea of what you are doing. There are many retail jewelers out there that specialize in colored gemstones who have knowledgeable people on staff to help you such as those who belong to the American Gem Society and/or are American Gem Trade Association Affiliate members. You can also attend any of the many gem and mineral shows that are in your local area that are open to the general public. Many of these shows are sponsored by local clubs or are sponsored by a commercial show promoter. See the Gem, Mineral and Jewelry Show Calendar for a listing of shows in your area. As the AGTA says "Add more color to your life."